Saturday, December 31, 2005

the HAPPY NEW YEAR post !!
(and probably the last one before my trip)

Ahoy, 2006! It's here and I'm happy. :) 2005 was spectacular, and I can't wait to see what 2006 may bring ...


The homestizzles pose before we all head out to the Hyatt.

Yes that's right, I spent New Year's Eve at the Hyatt on Jeju Island. It was sort of a free dancing / singing / variety show for the community. Posh though.


The elevators, and the interior of the Hotel. It's like a donut, with a big pond and stage in a covered courtyard center. Architecturally droolworthy.


Traditional Korean ... belly dancers?


Kyeong-Hwan and Won-Hee visit the fortune teller. She told me (the kids translated) that my students would respect me next spring. Huzzah!


Happy New Year!!

As this is the first day in a New Year, it has an almost magical, glowing quality about it. 2006 sure is full of promise. In fact, I can say with confidence the following:

number of drinks: 1 (champagne at the countdown)
number of days in which I forgot to floss: 0
mobile phone minutes used: 0
money spent on frivolity: $0

Isn't it wonderful? I mean, I'm sure all of that will change in due time, but for now ... model citizen. :)

And in the spirit of New Year's Resolutions, which i am almost certainly NOT too cool to ignore, here's mine for the year, inspired by largeheartedboy, a man whom I have never met but respect enormously. 52 weeks, 52 books. Can I do it?? Why not. :) Here's the rules: they can be any book, long or short - so I'll have to choose carefully for when I know I'll more or less time. This week's book, which I started after the party last night, is Stranger in A Strange Land by Robert Heinlein (thanks to Jennifer for sending it all the way out here!) :) Has anyone else read this book? It's AMAZING! I'm taking book recommendations by the way, what do you think for next week's book? And does anyone want in on this project with me? :) I certainly don't read enough - and reading is one of those things that makes you think "man, why don't I do this more OFTEN!" when you're actually doing it, but is rather hard to make the effort to actually DO, at least for me. Reading a book doesn't fit well with our sound-bite-sized bits of information we get in this fast paced world, and to me almost seems unproductive (whatever THAT means) to sit in a chair and read a book for an hour - but then again, I'm sure all this rushing around isn't really doing me much good anyway. :) Anyway, happy new year !! My host family tells me it's the year of the dog, and that can't be bad. Enjoy!

Monday, December 26, 2005

It was a beautiful sunny day today for the first time in ages, so me and Claudette (the scooter) decided to go on a little adventure.


Halla-san on the road from Sinsigagi (my town) to Seogwipo City


The view of Halla-san is amazing from certain parts of Seogwipo, here it is from the main rotary in the center of town (I haven't tried Jesus Day coffee, but I need to) :)


I then just started to drive east along the coast past Seogwipo and ended up climbing an oreum (large hill) that overlooked the sea ...


... and had a really good view of Halla-san


There was a line of squat little traditional houses, surrounded by Jeju rock walls, not 50 feet from the ocean line ...


Went exploring a little on the coast and found this secret cave ...


... and the stairs back up to the adjoining hotel were beautiful. :)

Later tonight my vice-principal and my coteacher Kim Soo-hee took me out for a fabulous dinner at a restaurant with architecture that looked right out of the Choseun dynasty. He's a marvelous man, a devout Protestant who doesn't drink (quite admirable in Korea given the social pressures) and is fond of bursting out in classic English songs - he was an English teacher before he got into administration, and is conversationally nearly flawless. His all-time favorite song is "Perhaps Love", which he requested from the lounge singer when we went out for after-dinner tea at the Hyatt Hotel in Jungmun, the tourist complex on the island. I had Jeju Yoo-Ja Citron tea, which is actually made from the Yoo-Ja citron fruit peels so I suppose its not truly a tea, but it was tasty anyways. :) Definitely not sweetened, which in my opinion was a good thing for this one, the natural taste of the peels on the bottom of the cup wasn't covered up. We then walked over to the Lotte Hotel for a fire and water show outside ... wish I had brought my camera for this one, there were fireballs shooting up into the sky and a mechanical but scary-real looking dragon that came out of the water and breathed fire!

Magnificent day. :D

Sunday, December 25, 2005



Merry Christmas, everyone.
It's currently 7:02 here. I'm sitting my pajamas, listening to Christmas on my iTunes and (still) wearing my Santa hat. It's been quite a week.



Without even intending to get much "learning" done, I brought my camera in to school and had the kids take pictures while they made English Christmas cards and snowflakes. I think they know the word "fold" very well now. :)



Their cards were of course heartwarming.





Friday was Daesin's school festival, which is kind of like a recital and a talent show all in one. My homestay sister sang and played the flute, there was a lot of dancing and Korean skits, and some of the "bad boys" in my class strutted around to Korean hip-hop. This was the last time I'd see my kids until March ... and I was a little surprised at how sad I was to leave them. One of the moments I know that teaching was the right decision for me. :)

Last night I stayed up late talking to my family back in America, which was perfect for Christmas eve (but I still miss fireplaces!). My homstay family and I did our gift exchange last night, so today I got to wake up super late. :) I toddled into the living room and my homestay brother and sister were watching Love Actually on TV. I walked in right at the beginning and I didn't move until the end I may or may not have been misty-eyed. Don't tell anyone.

Much love and miss you all ... Merry Christmas everyone!!

Friday, December 23, 2005

So what's the weirdest thing you can imagine seeing when you stumble out of bed in the morning? How bout this : your entire homestay apartment torn apart, and three burly Korean men walking around with hacksaws and drillbits watching me come out of my room like the whole world had gone mad. And yes, it had. The living room piled with pretty much everything from every closet and nook and cranny, the entry-way covered in sawdust, the stove & sink & refrigerator -- completely gone. I quickly discovered breakfast was not in the cards this morning.


opening my door to find ... tools!

So I asked Kyeong-Hwan, my homestay brother, what was going on.
KH: "I don't know - father not tell me."
Me: "Is he changing something in the house?"
KH: "He make a new sink."


Well, the old one was gone, so I hoped a new one would be arriving soon. That goes for the refrigerator as well. Man, I remember when we had one of those! There was food in it.



Don't get me wrong, I don't mind them redoing the apartment. Just wish they had told me first. I mean, isn't this big news? My parents would have been deliberating about a doozy like that for months! This was an "Ahhh, Korea!" moment. For sure. Time to scavenge in the piles of debris for food ...

Saturday, December 17, 2005

Thursday, December 15, 2005

I can't believe I forgot to blog about this before! Well, better late than never. :)
So as you may or may not know, my host family are busy busy people. We very very rarely eat dinner together; since my host mom works as a cook in the Convention Center, she eats all her meals there, and my host father eats dinner at around 10 or 10:30 when he gets back from work. My host brother and sister keep real crazy meal hours. But Sundays tend to be fairly normal, and we usually get one meal (either lunch or dinner) together. So, this past Sunday, I decided to make my host family ... quesadillas!

Now, I'm not a bad cook or a good cook really. I would characterize myself as "enthusiastic and untested". So in all honesty, I've never actually MADE quesadillas in the sense of actually getting the ingredients and putting them all together, though I have gathered the ingredients in Chase Dining Hall and watched the cooking staff make me a quesadilla countless times. Soo, it's the same thing. :) Miraculously, they came out nearly perfect! We had a great time shopping at E-Mart for the ingredients, with my host brother sneaking samples of the raspberry wine when nobody was looking and both of us coming back at least 3 times to the chocopuffs cereal sample bowl, hahah. The best part - my host mother actually let me cook! In the kitchen! I even got to make homemade guacamole and Mexican beans and rice. Ohhh man, I'm getting hungry again ...

Sunday, December 11, 2005



So, I can't tell you how many times I've googled "map of Southeast Asia" in the past week. Maybe like, 25. Thank ye gods for the google toolbar. Anyway, I thought since it's been on my mind quite a lot recently, I'd let you guys in on my super-secret top-secret very-tentative-and-also-secret travel plans for January/February.

Okay, here goes. You can follow along with the map, pretend it's one of those cool Indiana Jones map-with-lines and airplane photo montages. The green loop is to/from the farm right outside of Bangkok, blue means the sightseeing is over and I'm heading out, and ... don't ask me what the dotted line means. It just looked right. :)

January 19: Leave Seoul, stop over in Taiwan, arrive in Bangkok at 2 AM on ...
January 20 - 22: Explore Bangkok
January 23 - 27: Bus to and volunteer at Pathom Asoke, an organic Buddhist farm
January 27: Bus back to Bangkok, flight to Chang Mai
January 28-30: Trekking in the jungle
January 31: Travel to Chang Rai, book passage down the Mekong through Laos
January 31- February 5: Exploring villages in Laos, Vientaine
February 5: Return to Bangkok
February 6: Bangkok -> Kuala Lumpur
February 7: Kuala Lumpur -> Siem Reap
February 8-10: Exploring Angkor Wat
February 10: Siem Reap -> Kuala Lumpur
February 11: Kuala Lumpur -> Bangkok -> Taiwan -> Seoul
February 12: Seoul -> Jeju
February 13: First day of winter break class ?! (sleep?? haha.)

This is a lot for just a few days, and we know it. Actually only the flight to and from Bangkok and Seoul is booked, everything else is tentative and flexible.

this just in: my coteacher told me that they eat spiders in Cambodia. And they have a "Spider Forest". Am I biting off more than I can chew?? ;)

Friday, December 09, 2005

Bad mojo in Jeju City (or, the chicken that fell from the sky)

So today my host brother Kyeong-Hwan and I went into Jeju City, across the island, to see the new Harry Potter movie. We took the bus and were just ducking into Dunkin Donuts to get some movie munchkins when all of a sudden something large fell from the sky and hit my shoulder on the way, leaving a trail of feathers in its wake. We looked down to see a ... chicken! It was still kind of alive though it looked like its neck had been broken, it wasn't moving its head but its feet were still thrashing around. It was large as chickens go, not your average mottled brown and white little dirt scratcher, I think this guy's daddy was turkey. It was all sorts of different colors. We looked at it dumbly for a good minute, not knowing what to do. Should we put it out of its misery and kick it in the head? I wanted to help it, but I sure as hell didn't want to touch it. There were no open windows or anything from which it could have fallen or been thrown, and my mind raced to try and see if I could remember any snatches of prophesy or omens in the depths of my memory -- perhaps my crops will fail this year? Will my first-born child be born with webbed feet? It has been my policy never to touch almost-dead birds falling from the sky -- it's been a good policy thus far, and I'm sticking to it. One of the onlookers though, did not share my revulsion.

This woman picked the chicken up by its wings and started talking to Kyeong-Hwan in Korean. At this point I'm completely lost. She looked like a fairly normal person, and now she was holding a dying chicken up to us, speaking with a kind of fervor that communicated to me that since it had fallen on us, the chicken was somehow our responsibility. I caught little snatches - my host brother saying that we were going to see a movie and no, we did not want to carry a dying chicken around with us for the afternoon. Finally he ushered me into the store, we bought our munchkins, and when we got back the woman was still standing there waiting, with "our" chicken. Somehow we got out of that entanglement and went to the movie theatre.

The Harry Potter showing was dubbed in Korean and the next subtitled showing was in 2 hours so we decided to go see the Brothers Grimm instead, which turned out to be great but exactly the sort of creepy spooky mood that would amplify our already bizarre evening. We get in the theatre and there are only a few people with us - one of which, of course, is the middle-aged Korean woman, now obviously some sort of witch or conjurer. She's following us. I know it. After the movie we stick around and look at some of the video games, get lost in some of the stores (it's on the fifth floor of a mall) but of course the instant we get back on the street and turn a corner, we almost bump into Her again. I would laugh, cause hey -- it's funny! but I'm wayy to creeped out. My host brother asks her where we should wait for the bus, and she decides to lead us there. I warm up to her a bit now that she's helping us out and not trying to foist some diseased chicken on us, and we make a little small talk on the way. This of course evaporates when she leads us not to the bus stop, but instead to the chicken, dead now for over 2 hours, on the side of a flower bed. This time my brother picks it up and starts babbling about how we can cook it at home. The witch had clearly infected his brain with her foul magicks. He carries it back to the bus station and the witchwoman ducks into E-Mart and gets him a big bag to put it in. Would YOU eat a neck-snapped turkey-chicken that fell from the sky and then lay dead on the side of the road for hours? Am I being culturally insensitive here? No, I'm not. Luckily, after much frantic stammering on my part, I convinced him to throw it away. Makes that raw horse liver (yes, you read that right) I ate last week seem like comfort food. ;)

Okay, time to google for folk tales about chickens falling from the sky. I'm worried about my crops.

Tuesday, December 06, 2005

It's been raining and almost-snowing for days here in "sub-tropical" Jeju. I'm currently moping in my office, under the watchful glaze of two space heaters. I've been reading way too many weblogs. There's a sound coming from outside that sounds like the gnashing of teeth as the ghouls chomp up their dead victims on the battlefields in Warcraft 3. It's possibly snow melting from the roof.

I'm going nuts. ;)
A friend of mine just facebooked me this poem I wrote in junior or senior year of high school :

My name is Martin Sheen
I play the president.

My haircut sucks
My shirt is white
My glasses, they are bent.

My ghoulish features
Are like those creatures
Living in my vent.

Sunday, December 04, 2005


Tea, good friends, and rice cakes. So ... Seoul last weekend was nice. In a few words: met the U.S. ambassador to Korea, had turkey and cranberries and pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving dinner at his house, went nightclubbin', shopping, and generally had a wonderful time with my ETA buds. You guys never fail to be awesome. :) Posted by Picasa

A tea side street in Insadong. The Old Tea Shop is where we ended up. Posted by Picasa

Seoul travelling - Forest in my new favorite tea shop. If you look REAL close, you can see a tiny yellow bird behind the red candlestick on the branch. There were maybe a dozen birds flying free all over the shop. Forest's hair is auditioning for a Strokes cover band in Seoul, hahah. Posted by Picasa

A picture update this time! I know, it's been awhile. I was in Seoul last weekend, and once I get a little behind on things like blogging or emailing I get belligerent and don't do it at all. ;) Anyway, here's the doggies, I took them out for the season's first snow (Jeju?? Subtropical? Maybe not.) This is the Jeong's (the little one, brown and white) first time seeing snow.... Posted by Picasa

My scooter across the street in the streaking snow. I know, I know, I'll put a better pic of it up here soon. :) Posted by Picasa

Sunday, November 20, 2005

So I'm teaching a lesson this week based on John Lennon's song Imagine. I'm having the kids write two sentences at the end of class: Imagine there's no ______. If there's no ________, then ____________. Most of the kids are writing "Imagine there's no tests. If there's no tests, then I will be happy." But one kid today wrote "Imagine there's no greed. If there is no greed, humans will not improve." I find it hard to express sometimes to these kids the depth of appreciation I have for answers like that. :) Especially when the boy next to him can only say, "Teacher I love you! Okay, thank you!"

Tuesday, November 15, 2005

On the Korean Education System

So I teach this class in third period on Wednesday called my "English Teacher's Class" - basically I get together with the English teachers at Daesin Middle School and we talk about an article that I pick out. Sometimes we do humor bits from the Onion, or current events and politics, but this time we had a really great discussion about the Korean education system after reading this article. I'll try to get all of this out while it's fresh in my mind, and before lunch. ;)

If you don't feel like reading the whole thing - here's a quick summary: high school students are forced to study insane hours, getting maybe 4 hours of sleep every night, in order to pass one exam to get into university - this school's name on their transcripts will likely determine their job prospects and salaries for the rest of their lives. The kicker is that while talking to my fellow English teachers about it, they KNOW it's a problem - everyone admits it's a problem. The education system has been trying to reform this harsh reality for decades. The issue lies not with the education system itself but with the entire society.

I know many of you are annoyed and offended by blind patriotism and nationalism in America, but believe me - the same exists here. After the Korean War South Korea worked to rebuild its economy on the principle of self-reliance. "Made in Korea" is important when buying any consumer products - those who buy foreign cars for instance are social pariahs. Like Japan, Korea has few natural resources, and the country has invested extensively in education and industry - and it's paid off. But at what price? The suicides and the protests in this article underline the costs of such an obsession. A nation focused on efficiency, progress, and success - with post-war poverty fresh in the minds of many - often ignores that though these things might sometimes lead to happiness, in excess they often do not. Families, the basic building block of Korean Confucian society, put enormous pressure on their children to succeed for the honor of the family. That which should be a support network for children becomes a vehicle for the reinforcement of an over-valuing of success. Thus, a reform in education alone would not change to the underlying problem, the obsession with success over happiness and quality of life that penetrates even to the family level.

As a Fulbrighter and an English teacher here, I'm in the thick of it. I'm a teacher - one of the most respected jobs in Korean society. In America, teachers are looked down upon because of their low wages. Korean society realizes that teachers protect and cultivate a most valuable resource - their children. I remember that being a campaign slogan or something in the American education system, but it didn't really catch on - we don't think that way. Why not? What's the difference? We value success in America, certainly, but we also value something else even more - freedom. I'm realizing as I write this that I'm looking at the whole situation FROM that perspective. I'm reading about these poor children whose freedom is non-existant, going to class and academies and studying after school and coming home to sleep for 4 hours before doing it all again. And remember - these kids have school on Saturday too. But do they look at it that way? Am I imposing my own "freedom value" on these kids, and on this situation? I hate reading or listening to Bush blather on and on about "freedom" - but living in another society makes me realize just how much I DO value it, and just how American I am.

I'm teaching at a middle school. As Fulbright ETA schools go, mine is among those with the LEAST pressure for students. But even so, most kids stay till around 4:30 or 5 at school, and then go to academies till 8. The emphasis on studying, compared to what I remember from my own middle school days, is astronomical. But my friend Sarah teaches at a prestigious boarding school, a school where her kids know their rank in the country, and where they take mock tests and real tests and are completely indoctrinated with the "success value". She often asks questions about their motivation, and often gets the answer, "for the glory of Korea". Does any high school kid in America talk like that? It's more like "damn the man!" ... and then success is one's own. But anyhow, she finds herself in the midst of this high pressure environment, making triple the amount and intensity of lesson planning materials as us middle school teachers (do I feel guilty?? naww.) and grading papers, something I was discouraged from assigning or doing here at Daesin. As such a big part of the system, one has to wonder -- do I agree with it? Snce she seems to take it so seriously and put so much of herself into it, I was ask her sometimes if she's going to extend for another year. The answer's always the same - she says that she disagrees so much with the education system here that although she's a guest for the first year, any subsequent participation is in fact a tacit approval of the whole thing. So, probably not.

So -- what to do about all of this, and what to think about it, right now?

I know a few people who are academy (hagwon) teachers on Jeju Island - basically the native speakers that work with the kids at English hagwons, which Korean parents pay tons of money to send their kids to. Being after-school academies, the working day of a hagwon teacher begins at 2 pm and ends at maybe 8 pm. The pay is great over here and the price of daily life is much lower than in the States or Canada (where many hagwon teachers come from) - plus the application process requires really only a college diploma (from anywhere) and an adventurous spirit. All of these factors attract hagwon teachers with no teaching experience at all who really just want to come over here for the easy money, the attractive partying workhours, and the convenient spot to start some Asian travel after their contracts are up. This certainly doesn't describe everyone, but hagwon teachers sometimes have a bad rep over here. Anyway, just think about it - young Korean kids are watching these teachers, who might have been slacking off all their lives - live the dream of world travel, an easy job and easy money. What's going on here??

I never realized before how intensely priviledged I am to be born in America. I mean, I KNEW that I was lucky, everyone does, but at the very impersonal level we get when nagged by our parents or lectured by our social studies teachers about conditions around the world. As English speakers, we might have the world at our fingertips, but only because the REST of the world wants to speak English because America has such world control, especially in the business world. For Koreans, English is the ticket out of the overpopulated, highly competitive, Korean peninsula. But even if they do master English, they're at a further disadvantage. The Korean university system is known worldwide as being subpar, mainly because though the entrance exams to GET IN to Korean universities are really difficult, when one actually gets to university, the pressure's off. My fellow English teachers told me that professors are not motivated to do any good research, and all the momentum gained from studying like mad in high school is lost. Whatever above-average advantage Korean students had in high school, compared to students worldwide, is normalized.

The whole thing seemed to me to be one big nightmare.

As Fulbrighters, we're essentially guests in this country. We're not here to start a revolution. We're cultural ambassadors. We're here to teach, we're here to learn about Korean culture and expose our kids, our families, our fellow teachers, and our friends here to a little bit of American culture, simply by being ourselves. Do we have values and convictions? Most certainly. Do we have a right to voice them in this country? I'm not really sure.

Sunday, November 13, 2005

Tangerine Farm!

So ... I've done nothing but pass tangerine farms all day every day when I go driving on the roads on this island. I've always wanted to work at one, and I found out today that one of my host family's family friends owns one! So we went over to have lunch with them. They have two uni-aged daughters who were off, but also one 3rd grade elementary school girl who is quite possibly the cutest kid I've ever seen. Played with bubbles with her for maybe an hour. :) The farm is far from their house, but they have a sort of makeshift outside patio and kitchen area right next to tangerines. We sat around and talked as suddenly I heard an aborted "cocka-doodle doo!" and in came two six-seconds dead chickens. Watched as my host mother and her friend de-feathered and de-organed our lunch, as me and my host brother prepared the outdoor fireplace (which smelled amazing...) and then we stuck the chickens in a huge pot with juju-bees, garlic, and some traditional Korean herbs and just boiled it all over the fire. The whole day just felt so ... visceral. I crept with the kids around the tangerine trees stalking the other chickens, climbing around the trucks, and eating tangerines right from the trees. After lunch I helped pick three huge bushels of tangerines with the grownups. Hopefully I'll be going back there soon to help out. :) And the whole day I could look up into the cloudless sky and sea the browned top of Halla-san. I heart Jeju.
An Island Tour

Ahhh, Korean hospitality. Honestly, there's nothing quite like it.
Yesterday Ben-si, me, and L^3 (Lindsay Laura Lauren) went out for the afternoon and evening with one of Lindsay's fellow English teachers, who had a whole day of Jeju sightseein' and Korean-culture-experiencin' planned for us. A few highlights:

-Seeing the ubiquitous rice cakes actually being made (with a bang!)
-Watching Ben consume unhealthy amounts of kyool (clementine-like mini oranges)
-Rolling bottles of makkoli down (up?) the "mysterious road" where the road's tilt is supposed to create an illusion - I didn't get it. I suspect its like those damn Magic Eye posters I could never get, some people just don't see the mystery. ;)
-Eating various sea creatures, tofu, and tasty fruit throughout the evening.
-An amazing tea shop experience! We had 3 types of tea - including "meh-meel-cha" (wheat tea), a really thick "tea" that was apparently 35% vegetable matter, and yellow nok-cha. Also found out that Lindsay's fellow teacher plays Paduk (Go) ... asked him to "throw down" with me sometime. My slang-spreading crusade continues ... (I had my coteacher saying "manpurse" the other day)
-LOVELAND. Basically a sex sculpture park. God, I don't even know where to begin. Check my flickr site for pics soon. ;)
-Being serenaded by three guitar-weilding Korean men playing Elvis's "Love Me Tender" as we looked over Jeju City sipping Blue Margaritas and Long Island Iced Teas to top off the evening. Uh-HUH! :)

Thursday, November 10, 2005

So in Korea I have this thing. Almost every week I come up with a new favorite phrase, and I repeat it over and over again to the amusement (annoyance) of my homestay family, coworkers, and students unlucky enough to hang around me too much. Last week it was "hajjima ajjima!" (literally meaning: "stop it, you middle-aged woman!"). This week it's "yo-gee mo-gee" (lit. "there is a mosquito here.") Yeah, I thought it was cute. And it was cute, until the mo-gees caught on that I was talking about them and decided to swarm my room last night. I must have killed 6 or 7 over the course of the night, and if those were the only ones in my room then they all took an average of like ... 5 bites of me each. I was COVERED in itchy itchy mo-gee bites. Stayed awake till 5:00 tossing and scratching and battling the buggers, got two hours of sleep, and then moaned and groaned my way up the hill in the rain to school, where I was set to introduce a new lesson, always a daunting challenge in its own right.

I should have trusted my kids to be awesome. :) Today I taught John Lennon's "Imagine" to a class of kids that was just amazing. To my utter surprise, I found myself being able to explain property rights, country borders, and "us versus them" mentality to middle school Koreans. Maybe it was the leftover Halloween candy that I was throwing at them, but they were bright-eyed and interested. Had them create their own utopia (with if/then statements), and here are some of the things they said,

one girl: "Imagine there's no boys. If there's no boys, I will be very sad."

a quiet boy from the back of the class: "Imagine there's no land. If there is no land, then I will fly all day."

a rowdy boy from the back of the class: "Imagine there's no me. If there is no me, then the world will be happy"
me: "Why would the world be happy without you?"
boy (with a grin): "Because I am DEVIL!"
me: "Hahah, that's worth TWO pieces of candy"

Korea has a habit of dishing out the best days and the worst days all at once. ;)

Wednesday, November 09, 2005

Of Korean Dinner Parties

So my host mother arrived home at around quarter of 7 tonight as I was cleaning up a little dinner that I had made myself a few minutes earlier. "Pap mogassoyo?" (did you eat?) she asked me. It was obvious that yes, I had. Apparently tonight she was taking me to a dinner party! Luckily, I was hungry again by the time we rolled out. :)

This dinner party was apparently for some of the workers at the Convention Center where my host mom is a baker - they were here for a while and now they're going back to Seoul. We arrived and sat down, immediately to be offered shots of soju. Soju, for those of you who don't know, is an alcohol maybe half the proof of vodka, stomachable without a chaser, but nasty enough to deserve a shot glass instead of a frosty mug. It's also the official drink of Korea and the Korean social scene. It's customary here for men to offer each other glasses of soju, which should be drunk and then passed back empty and refilled for the original person to enjoy (this creates a sort of social bond) and when one's shot glass is emptied it is the obligation of the surrounding friends to refill it. I've been at a dinner party with my host mother's work buddies before, and I've done the soju touring. Tonight was not a night for drinking, so I gave a polite "no thanks" - and after some protest by the guys that was that.

It's never fun to be the one guy at a party pretending to be real interested in the potted plants, but that's how I feel a lot here in Korea. I think it's the same for all the ETAs. I get used to just sort of absorbing the atmosphere, picking out familiar words in the conversations and trying to get what people are saying - who's friends with whom, who's mad, who's jealous, all that. But sometimes I feel this sort of obligation to participate, something self-imposed but a vestige from my days as a painfully shy kid always pushing myself or being pushed by other people to interact just a little outside my degree of comfort. THE way to participate is by drinking, sharing the wordless eyebrow raises and winks and "one-shot!" and other such bottoms-up cheering that transcends the language barrier. I'm not drinking, so I'm out of the loop, as men around me pass glasses and top each other off and clamour to catch up those people who've just arrive. They mill around me, moving around between the tables, in a manner unfamiliar to Westerners confined to chairs, they squeeze in next to each other on the floor, bending over the low tables to grab some galbi (barbequed meat), wrap it with garlic and soybean paste and veggies to stuff it into each others mouths, or to reach for one of the multiplying bottles of soju on the table. The alcoholic becomes a vehicle, a conveyance and a reason to move - men in business stand up from a cross-legged position and get their balance, grinning with a glass of soju in hand and creep around to the opposite table, finding a place on the floor next to their boss and off a deferential drink, or a buddy and offer one of many drinks of the evening, or to a new guy as a gesture of welcome.

But I am not conveyed. I sit, bound by my water to one spot, opposite my host mother. We're the only ones who didn't move all night. I'm sitting here next to a Korean man with whom I have neither age nor language nor occupation in common, plotting and scheming for ways to interject myself into the conversation. A little "ahem ... chonen Henry imnida" (My name is Henry) oughtta do the trick. If I don't just give it a shot, then I'll walk away here knowing I missed an opportunity to interact. And that will be totally my fault. So I turn to the guy and wait for an appropriate pause ... and I stop. And I realize that the Fulbright rhetoric here has beaten our "cultural ambassador" role into our heads so much that it's become a little unnatural. It's like I'm in the classroom, making this effort because if I don't, I'll get graded down. And I realize that in this situation such an interjection isn't appropriate. I'm not being rude just sitting here, in fact it would be quite socially odd if I made such an effort.

This one's a doozy. So why am I sitting here? Introspection gripped my mind in that embarrassing way you never ever want it to in the midst of a gathering such as this. In the States a refusal to drink, though it might be a little bit of a party-pooper move, is a lot more respected given the widespread acceptance of alcoholism as a disease. In Korea there is no AA. Many men might be considered alcoholics by our standards but given the drinking culture here that level of abuse is within acceptable ranges and doesn't translate to abbhorent behavior (which might indicate a need for treatment) though I'm sure it manifests similarly in health problems. I'm filled with need to DO something, to learn something, to come away with something from this experience. With a constant supply of new experiences in a foreign country, you get used to treating every event as a sort of eye-opening experience, a minor revelation that might get you just one step closer to who you are and what you're looking for out of life. The worst thing would be to admit that though you're halfway across the world in the middle of a lively Korean dinner party, you're really just the awkward foreigner that everyone's afraid to talk to because they don't want to reveal just how little English they actually remember from school. I'm waiting for the Korean man next to me who ignored my hello at the beginning of the meal turn to me and say in perfect English, "Sorry man, couldn't get out of that conversation. You remind me of this guy I met in Istanbul a few years ago..." and change my life. It doesn't happen, and I realize that I'm trying to force something like that to happen. I shouldn't be painfully shy, but I shouldn't be unnatural. I sit back and smile into the mirror and let it all wash over me.

A little while later, it DOES happen naturally. In walks a fidgety 40-something man with a hint of red in his spiky hair wearing what looks like the unholy child of a leather biker's jacket and a bathrobe. He sits next to me and across from my host mom at the end of the table and nervously taps his phone. I realize he feels just as out of place here as I do. I give him my winning "My name is Henry" line and we strike up as much of a conversation that our language barrier can handle. He smiles, because although I'm halfway around the world in another country, it's perfectly natural.

As the night goes on, I have stunted exchanges with the original group of men, little smiles and nods - I get a big grin from one man whose face I've watched deepen its shade of red throughout the night, and one man who looks 26 but is of course 38 (that must have been a fertile year, almost EVERY Korean I meet is 38) who speaks English about as well as my students invites me to go and do archery with him! I guess I don't have to know Korean to be absolutely abyssmal at that. ;)

By that time some more people had filtered in, including a young man who was - I kid you not - the SPITTING IMAGE of my friend Adam Ortiz from Wheaton. It was ... amazing. This Korean Adam came in with a baseball hat and glasses and Adam's perky perpetual grin ... a tshirt over a collared shirt and a sweater. I almost asked him how his new movie was coming along. Even weirder - as I (probably blatantly) stared at him down the table, he turned to me and gave me this "hey, yeah look at us we're sitting at a Korean restaurant table, how weird is that?" look. It was all in the eyes. As he walked around on his soju tour for some reason all the men would pinch his cheek - Leather Bathrobe especially. I was trying to figure out how to get a picture with him without looking completely crazy - no dice.

My host brother, who also came, had retreated to sleep in the car maybe an hour ago. After my mother and Leather Bathrobe have a special "secret discussion" whispered at one corner of the table, we got up to leave. I was stuffed and satisfied. I had finally given up my expectations, and just let things flow. Flow they did.


As a side note: my mobile phone not only has a small blue picture of a snowman available for insertion in a text message, but also special symbols for both rads per second AND rads per second squared. score.

Tuesday, November 08, 2005

So ... I just got back from a Korean funeral.

...

I almost feel bad about blogging about this, given the slightly touristy nature of my whole approach in each entry ... buttt ... death is a part of life. And as a religion major, death rituals are often the juiciest parts of life. So here goes.

I actually didn't go to the funeral proper, I went to a "pre-funeral ceremony" for the father of one of the second grade teachers at my school. Apparently this goes on for 3 or 4 days and then they have the actual funeral, at which only family and friends are usually present. The teachers in Korea are always very tight though, and it is expected that all the teachers in the school will attend this "pre-funeral ceremony". So there I was. I knew Mi Sonsengneem only as the smiley, non-English speaking Home Ec teacher who sat near the middle of the kyo-mo-shil (teacher's room), and I had no idea what to expect. Would I be praying in front of a body? Would there be awkward standing-around-talking-to-other-people-quietly time that I so loathed at functions like these, even when I COULD speak the language? I don't own a black shirt over here, good thing I had a black sweater! :)

When I got there, I found that it was actually attached to the hospital. We were breezed past Confucian-looking men in yellow suits and pope-like but solid yellow hats, some with long beards who obviously served some sort of ceremonial function, and some men who just looked like anyone you might see on the street - with a yellow hat on. We were led past columns of white flowers, past rooms on the first floor packed with yellow-hatted people sitting on hard wood floors talking and bowing, up some stairs and into a ... cafeteria. My coteacher motioned me to sit with some of the other teachers I knew just as a woman in what looked like a 19th century peasant outfit came past me. The first thing I did when I caught her face was smile - in that instant I recognized the Mi Sonsengneem. I blurted out "yoo-gum su-rop-simnida", the line I had been muttering under my breathe the whole car ride, which roughly translates "I'm sorry for your loss." I hope she heard me. There were tears in her eyes, but she looked strangely perfect in her yellow robe and little white bonnet. Although all the guests wore black, she was wearing yellow and white.

We sat and listened to the general din of the place as small side dish plates of kimchi, radishes, and beansprouts were brought before us, and then a bowl of noodle soup. About halfway through a silent meal, my coteacher started talking about our plans to go shopping for a new cell phone battery later that week, which seemed a little odd to say the least. Mi Sonsengneem went back and forth, sometimes helping serve and sometimes exchanging a few words with someone. There was a small divider and on the other side was another room of people eating noodles and kimchi and beansprouts, drinking water and beer and soju, and looking vaguely respectful and courteous. And another peasant girl in yellow and white.

After maybe 15 minutes of eating, some of the teachers got up to leave the cafeteria and we followed. We were already outside and heading toward the car when I realized that that was it. My coteacher hadn't even talked to the second-grade teacher at all. A little strange - we arrive, eat a meal, and then leave. But there was a different sort of solemnity to the whole thing, I can't really explain it. When in Rome, ehh?

Last week actually, my great-grandmother on my father's side passed away. She lived in Iowa, and I've met her once or twice, but I didn't really know her. My dad is out there right now ... maybe we were both at funerals today, halfway across the world.

Sunday, November 06, 2005

Ya'll might know that I usually hate forwards and memes, but my. god. I love it.

So here's what you do. Go to google and type in "[yourname] needs". Here are the results for "Henry needs"

1. Henry needs a haircut (an animated movie circa 2001, running time 15 min.)
2. The Henry needs volunteers
3. Henry needs a drink
4. Henry needs a new pair of shoes
5. Henry needs partner for offense to sizzle
6. Henry needs surgery
7. Henry needs help in learning social skills
8. Henry needs to be limited to no more than 100 MW
9. Henry needs finishing!

All so, so true. 'Specially number 5. What does that even MEAN?

Mad props to the berninator for that one.
Good morning everyone. :)

Lately I've been feeling very introspective, so I thought I'd share a bit of me with you. It's difficult sometimes to come across the way you want in emails - things tend to be formulaic, there's the asking of how "things are in your world?", the updating of things in one's world, the I miss yous, the take cares, the goodbyes. So I would just like to say, unequivocably and unmechanically, that I miss you all like mad. :)

Anyways. Yesterday was the annual Tangerine Festival here on Jeju Island. For those of you who DON'T know ... Jeju is famous for three things according to legend: rocks, wind, and women. In reality it's famous for none of those things, at least not more than tangerines. They're ubiquitous (I think that's the first time I've ever used that word!) throughout the island, driving anywhere you pass farm after farm of these short trees. Lately the tangerines have been turning from green to a pleasing orange color, and I guess yesterday was the harvest festival. I hear some schools even get days off this week so the kids can help with the pickins'. I was hoping for some sort of pagan festival yesterday, tangerines smeared on the dancing bodies of young men and women as they thanked the gods for a plentiful harvest ... and ... it was more like the produce section of the local E-mart. ;) Not only tangerines, but all sorts of strange exotic fruits and little trees (pics to come soon to flickr). Here were some highlights of my stay at the Tangerine Festival:

-A giant dolharubang (stone grandfather, statues like the Easter island ones traditional to Jeju island) - made out of tangerines!
-More teas than I could hold, literally. We went from booth to booth and my host mother poured me samples as I tried to down the last one, holding onto like 3 cups at once, my camera, brochures, my notebook, and gods know what else. I need a manpurse. The best tea? A dark red zinger made from a raspberry looking plant -- looks like juice, tastes like tea, is like awesome. ;)
-A magical ride on a horse-drawn cart for a total of maybe 30 feet. We went around in a little circle on the pavement. It was worth it though, one little girl sat there the whole time with her mouth wide open in wordless joy. So cute.
-"Sook dum". This one bears some explaining. Apparently there's this traditional herbal remedy which involves the burning of crushed plant leaves, dried and shaped into a cone like incense, on a part of the body for healing / well-being purposes. It looked kind of cool so I volunteered at the booth, and ended up getting to chill out there on a little bed for like 45 minutes with this thing burning on my stomach! Sook smells like ... ummm... a certain "herb of the field". It's definitely really relaxing, and I think I snuck a little nap in there too.
-My host mother bought a few of these giant-lemon-looking fruit, and showed me that if you rub your hands on it, you end up smelling like if Calvin Klein put out a "soft smells of summer" fragrance. She gave me one on a little dish to put in my room. :D It's those little things that I love.

Thursday, November 03, 2005

So I went outside to take out the trash tonight and it felt so good to be under the sky - it had been a rainy day today and I'm a little sick, so I'd been cooping myself up with email and books for much of it. I was about to go back into the apartment but I got that urge ... to just go for a walk. I always trust that urge. So I walked our apartment's little foot-massage path for a while, and then I started to follow this strange music I heard coming from the other side of the park. Turns out one of the buildings over there is some sort of function hall, and I peeked in the windows at a dance troupe practicing, and saw through another side door to some sort of music performance, complete with screaming fangirls. So I went to the main entrance and went inside. I've found that faking confidence is ALWAYS the best way to maneuver in a situation so I pretended I knew where I was going, and went into the auditorium to find ... a Korean rap act ! And no empty seats. But at least I know there's some kind of performance hall like 2 min from my apt! So many things I don't know about, right under my nose in Korea.

Even closer to my house is the library, which I've known about for a while but never explored. Tonight was the right night. After wandering around for a bit, found that the 3rd floor was randomly full of people -- all ages from elementary school into college. And all studying! Or at least pretending to be, while they talked to their friends. So tonight I felt like a freshman again at Wheaton, really interested for a while in my own room and my dorm floor, but then a month or so into things really discovering that I have a CAMPUS right at my fingertips. With a library and a concert hall it really does feel like a campus. Can't wait to bring my laptop and some writing over to the library next week ... especially since it's within range of my homestay wireless ! ;)

Wednesday, November 02, 2005

Went to Cheongju on the mainland this weekend for a little Halloween action. :) Some highlights of the trip:

-Choosing a random bar to chill at in Cheongju only to find 3 or 4 MAGGOTS crawling in and out of the peanuts, corn chips, and dried squid. Yes, maggots. Yes, we probably ate some. Of course it was absolutely necessary to kill said maggots with copious amounts of beer later in the evening.

-Wandering around Cheongju the next day and finding, in Korea's only landlocked province, what looked to be an abandoned boat turned into a restaurant left to decay - windows were smashed, doors were unhinged, and there was a dead rat on the stairs. Good view of the city from the main mast though. :)

-Face painting and general Halloween fun with the kids in Annie's friend's hagwon (after school English academy). Elementary school kids are so cute, I wish I could be teaching them. I'd probably never discipline, just rub their little heads and coo at them, so it's probably good I don't. ;)

-Endless amazing talks with my ETA buddies, till 4 AM every night. You guys rock.

Spent the last couple of days updating my flickr site, I've been like 2 months out of date! Sorry about that. Everything's up there now, organized in sets no less! Check it out, and update your bookmarks. ;)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24563232@N00/sets

Be well all :)

Wednesday, October 26, 2005

This just in -- I went to a Korean pop concert last night (my host mom got me free tickets!), and apparently I made it onto the televised coverage ! I guess I stand out in a crowd of screaming/rapturously crying Korean schoolgirls with camera phones. ;)
A little bit about my trip with the kiddies today on their picnic day – sat squashed between two first grade boys and listened to some Beatles on the way up until I felt a little sick. Promised my new Beatles friend that I’d make him a CD next week. Made an awesome t-shirt with two tangerines that said :Jeju-lovin’" :) Got some pictures and some smiles from my happy happy kids, stole some kimbap with some of the other teachers from the students – the teachers just go around snatching and grinning from all the kids’ lunches, it’s great (if not slightly unfair heheh). Explored Micheon Cave, which according to my teacher friend from the 1st grade, is "a very small cave" – I was expecting a little hole, but it was about the size of maybe 2 of my middle schools! The most interesting part was definitely the hal-mo-nee (grandmother) figure, which looked exactly like a Buddha figure with slightly different dress. Apparently prospective mothers come here and pray in front of a blue or red candle for a boy or girl, respectively. It’s part of the pre-Buddhist shamanistic religion here – it’s fascinating, and I know I’ve only just struck the surface ...

Monday, October 24, 2005

Yesterday, I ALMOST lost my faith in tea. ;)

Went with my homestay brother and sister to the International Tea Festival at the Convention Center here on Jeju. I'm really starting to appreciate that place, they bring in so much great stuff all the time. We got to the tea festival though ... and I really felt the language barrier. All sorts of tables were set up with beatiful tea sets, but I couldn't ask any questions - my host bro/sis couldn't really tell me any more than ... "over there, Chinese tea. Here, Korean tea." Sat down for a tea ceremony and ... okay, I'm not going to pretend to like it. I've never had a taste for the formality and mindnumbing sloth-litude of the Korean tea ceremony. I counted at least five people in the audience actually who fell asleep. Just as I was about to join them, my host mother came up from having finished her work downstairs in the bakery, and snuck us backstage! I swear, my host family knows everyone there is to know on this island. We got to taste a Taiwanese mountain green tea, grown with flowers, and an Indian black tea with cloves and milk. By the time we finished with those (delicious!), they had prepared teas in the lobby and I tasted Korean winter, spring, summer, and fall teas. I've never had a delicate enough pallette when it comes to distinguishing between different types of tea within the same general group, like green teas ... but after tasting each one, I could finally detect some subtleties! I'm developing that snobbery I so crave! :) (am i kidding??) ;) So anyway, the moral of this story is - host mothers are awesome. It's all about who ya know.

Today I went on a little ride on my scooter, a trip to find the "five days market" I've heard so much about. Every five days, the market apparently stays open all day. I caught the very end of it, and it was amazing!! A lot bigger than I expected. It reminded me of the English Market in Cork (awww Cork, how I miss you...) , and the market we found when touring Barcelona. This one wasn't just produce, though that dominated - there were a lot of clothes, from jeans to ajjima track pants to addoshi flannel shirts to hats and bras and underwear. I even found some parakeets. :) Went home with some tasty banana chips and a smile.

Monday, October 17, 2005

I love my students.

So during lunch I created a little program at my school called "English Lunchtime". At the beginning of the semester students signed up to eat lunch and talk with me. Today I had lunch today with my first group of boy students, I guess my coteacher put all the guy students in the rotation towards the end. I thought middle school girls were fun, but oh no. :) They were doing their best E.T. impressions (for some reason all my students are obsessed with E.T. (the extra-terrestrial), making funny faces, whispering to me confidentially (teacher, buy me ice cream!) and lamenting their lack girlfriends (teacher, girlfriendee no!). One of the boys was a little chubby but definitely the most cheerful of them all, happily telling me that he is having a baby, actually two babies a boy and a girl, twins. He also told me about his ghost girlfriend Dong Su who then started assaulting the boys around the table (they love beating themselves up). :)
Tomorrow I'm going to the PC-bang (internet gaming cafe) with these guys, they're going to trounce me in Starcraft. For those of you who don't know, Starcraft is nearly the official game of Korea, with national leagues, its own TV station dedicated to Starcraft strategy, and expert players whose popularity borders on celebrity. Needless to say, I don't stand a chance. :)

In other news ... I bought a scooter!! I'd been thinking about it for a while and I finally made the plunge. It's only 50cc so I don't need an international license, and the bike only cost me the equivalent of US$350, and I can sell it back for US$200 at the end of the year ... net cost to me - US$150! It was a (wink) steal! Love it to death already, took it for a ride last night down to the beach under the full moon and watched some lonely fishermen on one of Jeju-do's dramatic cliffs. Picutres of scooter soon. Don't worry Mom, I'll be careful. ;)

Friday, October 14, 2005

Buddhism and Expectations

So, I've being interviewed by the Franklin Country Gazette, my hometown newspaper, and the reporter emailed me a bunch of questions which I answered early this morning. One of them was "What were your expectations going into this and have they changed?" I started to write something loftly about trying not to have any expectations, living right here in the moment all the time by the seat of my pants, immersing myself in the experience, that sort of thing, but a couple sentences in I realized it was absolute crap. It bothered me so much that I actually deleted the question entirely from my response (hope she didn't notice!). But it's stuck with me. I visited Yakcheonsa Temple this afternoon and the question was still bouncing around in my head. This post is an attempt, I guess, to answer that question.

The truth is I had a LOT of expectations coming to Korea. We all did, each one of us Fulbright ETAs and also the hagwon (English academy) teachers - everyone who picked up and left their homes and everything familiar to come halfway across and do something most had absolutely no experience doing - teaching English to non-English speakers. It takes a certain type of person to do something like that, but I think it also takes a certain amount of faith that somewhere in Korea you will find what you're looking for, something that wasn't just around the corner (but maybe was all along - that enigmatic "search for the self"). Anyhow, for me it was a little different, I'd been studying Buddhism and Zen from books for years and I thought it was time I experienced it directly, in its cultural context and in all its native glory. I fully admit to being caught up in a romantic image of "The East" - captured in self-help meditation and New Age books, movies like The Matrix, and permeating almost every area of pop culture. I guess I came out here to find out how much of that is true.

The truth is, I've found more inspiration in a little book I read my senior year while I wrote my thesis than I've found in all the Buddhist temples I've visited here. This is not necessarily a bad thing - I guess I'm just recognizing what my expectations were, and reconciling myself with the fact that I'm a little surprised with what I found. Temple tourism here is similar to cathedral tourism in Europe. I suppose if I were a devout Catholic I might be a little upset by the camera flashes while I tried to pray in the pews of an ancient seat of my religion. Every temple I've gone to here, with the exception of Dea Heung Sa in Mokpo (I'll be posting a little bit about that one later this weekend), has been little more than a tourist zoo. What did I expect? A set of misty stone steps that I might ascend barefoot, to be greeted by a shining-eyed old monk who would hand me a bowl of rice and then teach me how to be the next Batman? Deep down, I think I hoped for something like that. At the very least, I hoped to find the same sort of energy and passion that I read about in books by the Dalai Lama, Thich Nat Hanh, and some of the short works we read in my Engaged Buddhism class back at Wheaton. Whenever I've approached monks (even with a translator) or Buddhist laity here, they can give me no answers about Buddhist ethics. As the pictures below show, there are some beautiful gardens in front of Yakcheonsa, but my repeated efforts to indicate I'd like to help out with the temple community and lend my labor have been met with puzzled stares.

I've always known that there are different types of Buddhism in the world, and I think I'm seeing that more clearly now. The Engaged Buddhism I read about is prevalent in Southeast Asia, and things are much different here, in a highly Christianized and mostly Confucian society. Buddhism is just one small part of the social picture. I'm currently in contact with a professor from Maryland and his research grantees that volunteered at a Engaged Buddhist sustainable community this past summer - I'm 90% I'll end up there for a few weeks this winter. :) But I'm not in Thailand right now, I'm in Korea.

At the same time, I feel like I'm getting half the picture here. As I sat and inwardly grimaced at the tourists, I watched young mothers and their children, older women in visors and baggy Jeju pants, and men in full business suits silently take off their shoes and do bow after bow in front of the Buddhas. I watched a little boy not more than 4 make a very formal bow in front of the temple and then run grinning back to his mom. It's times like this that I feel the language barrier the most strongly (although I did hear the mother say "Cha-de-sa-yo" - good job! to the beaming kid). There's something here I'm missing, there's a Buddhist culture here that I don't understand. And I think with the right attitude, that mystery, that challenge, is more than enough get me excited again about Korean Buddhism. :)

Fields of a beautiful white flower, possibly an Herb or Vegetable, growing in front of the temple. This is the kind of informative narrative you can expect when I venture into non-English speaking areas alone. ;) Posted by Picasa

Gardens in front of Yakcheonsa temple, I guess they do have some Buddhist farming on this island! Posted by Picasa

Medicinal holy water, from the fish's mouth at Yakcheonsa. Posted by Picasa

The view of the sea from Yakcheonsa. If you look REAALLY close, you can see Indonesia out there. ;) Posted by Picasa

The river and the sea Posted by Picasa

The river, spilling into the sea. Posted by Picasa

I found a secret cache of haenya (women diver) nets and equipment next to the river and the sea ... I totally felt like I was in a video game and I just found an Important Item! Posted by Picasa

Monday, October 10, 2005

I realized that although I've been here a few months, I've never once wrote extensively about Korean, food, although it is one of the most enjoyable parts of living on this side of the world. Sooooo ... here ya go. :) As you probably know, rice is the main dish at every meal, in fact the phrase "pap mogassoyo?" or "did you eat?" literally means "did you eat rice?" Koreans like to wrap meat in leaves, that's what the traditional "Korean barbeque" restaurants in the States usually focus on, and it certainly is delicious. They cook it right at the table for you, and you wrap it with lettuce, sesame leaves, or cabbage (very healthy!) But here in Jeju we get a lot of raw fish, which we dip in go-to-jawn (spicy red pepper sauce). Kimchi is the most important vegetable dish, it's pickled cabbage in go-to-jawn paste - and its freakin' fantastic. There's lots of different kinds of kimchi, cabbage is the basic one but radishes, spring onions, and a lot of Chinese vegetables that don't really have English translations get kimchi'ed. One of my favorite things that my host mother makes is a kimchi'ed cuttlefish ... I guess strands. Strands of cuttlefish. It tastes a lot better than it sounds. Koreans also don't have their own plates of food (except for bowls of rice) ... they put all the side dishes, meat dishes, even soup sometimes in the center, and you take what you want. It is then customary to save the rest for the next meal (no food waste). What a beautiful system. :) Yes, as you see, I've fallen in love.

Sunday, October 09, 2005

Did anyone know you could eat sweet potatoes, raw? My host mother gave me a few for breakfast this morning, and they've got to be the most delicious thing I've ever tasted. So soft, so natural.

Did a little researching and I might be visiting my first Buddhist organic farm on my day off this Wednesday! It's about an hour away by bus. There's a fairly big WWOOF community here in Korea, and I want to be a part of it. You know, on top of a new teaching job, in a new country. ;) I'll let you know how it goes ...

Wednesday, October 05, 2005


went to see a parade that went from the center of Seogwipo City to Cheonjiyeon Waterfall ... it was a celebration of Jeju culture and was pretty amazing :) Here is Kim Soo-Hee, my coteacher and partner in crime, striking the pose. Posted by Picasa

these are haenya, or "women divers". they go underwater and catch fish, squid, clams, etc. - it's a traditional practice that's slowly dying out Posted by Picasa

"I don't believe people are looking for the meaning of life as much as they are looking for the experience of being alive." ~ Joseph Campbell

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